What oil do you use?
#21
Posted 06 November 2015 - 08:48 AM
#22
Posted 06 November 2015 - 09:48 AM
Technically speaking, I would bet the wet sumps are harder on oil than a dry sump. Especially in the lower classes. Dry sumps have more capacity, more filtration, better flow, and an oil cooler into the mix. Locally on a 1/4 mile, their isn't much difference in RPMS between a wetsump street stock and a dry sump late model, other than one has a $100 oil pump, and the other a $1,000 oil pump. One is towing a 3000-3300 lb car around, and the other a 2200lb car. one depends on the factory oil passages to direct oil, and the other puts oil exactly where it needs it most, One runs a coffee can size oil filter, and the other a coffee cup. One with a reservoir and cooler and the other a 7 qt pan. Heat and dirt is an oils worst enemy, not sustained high rpms.
Edited by ramsey31, 06 November 2015 - 09:51 AM.
#23
Posted 06 November 2015 - 10:59 AM
Well heat is not much of an issue with full synthetic oil. It doesn't break down like conventional and its viscosity stays consistent. So less sludge and maintained oil pressure. But on the other side of that, if you change it often enough then the oil doesn't have time to break down. I have heard mixed feelings between the two though. Not sure how many are running conventional these days but im sure the engine builder has his recommendations.Technically speaking, I would bet the wet sumps are harder on oil than a dry sump. Especially in the lower classes. Dry sumps have more capacity, more filtration, better flow, and an oil cooler into the mix. Locally on a 1/4 mile, their isn't much difference in RPMS between a wetsump street stock and a dry sump late model, other than one has a $100 oil pump, and the other a $1,000 oil pump. One is towing a 3000-3300 lb car around, and the other a 2200lb car. one depends on the factory oil passages to direct oil, and the other puts oil exactly where it needs it most, One runs a coffee can size oil filter, and the other a coffee cup. One with a reservoir and cooler and the other a 7 qt pan. Heat and dirt is an oils worst enemy, not sustained high rpms.
#24
Posted 06 November 2015 - 11:34 AM
#25
Posted 06 November 2015 - 12:55 PM
even with 9qts in a wet sump motor you will run in the pan dry if you are turning over 7800rpm constant. I cant see anyone turning over that. In fact I bet most of them dont cross the 7000 mark.So you are telling me your turning you cadet 84-8500 ???
#26
Posted 06 November 2015 - 01:12 PM
#27
Posted 06 November 2015 - 02:19 PM
I know I'll be laughed at for saying this. But John Brady #96 late model runs Marion Center, Hummingbird, Dog Hollow, and used to race AMP builds his own engines out of his own garage. I'm not saying anything about his driving abilities, but among other things John is known for being able to build one hell of a motor. Multiple drivers have driven his equipment and all say the same thing. "If he ever gets the handling figured out we're screwed!" He broke his wrist a few years back and put Jim Parsons in his car. first night out Jim won the feature at hummingbird. John was consistently top 2 or 3 at AMP running against the likes of Luke Hoffner and Duane Stiner with one win to his credit. All with a motor that he built in his garage for about $10k. In fact, get a hold of him he's selling everything trailer, race ready car and whatever else he has for $15k
#28
Posted 06 November 2015 - 02:29 PM
#29
Posted 06 November 2015 - 04:28 PM
While not sustained, I was close. 7800-7900. Tight 1/4 mile. While I can "backyard" build an engine, I would much rather pay for the expertise to get "smooth, powerful, and reliable" IMO it was $ well spent.
#30
Posted 07 November 2015 - 01:03 AM
I've heard that a brand named Super Tech is the best money can buy for the top knotch racing powerplants ?
#31
Posted 10 November 2015 - 08:55 AM
oh i sure do love a good oil argument. whats wrong with super tech?
Edited by bomber315, 10 November 2015 - 08:55 AM.
#32
Posted 10 November 2015 - 09:58 AM
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